The Craft of Jewellery Designing

“Every piece of jewellery tells a story.”

Jewellery Designing is an art that has been present in the human civilisation since the inception of our existence. Now, we are at an advanced stage where jewellery and the art of designing is being renewed every passing day.

We create our own ways of pairing up jewellery with our changing looks, giving a new outlook to the jewellery every time we wear it. But have you ever considered more? Have you ever wanted to design jewellery? Make your own designs for not only yourself, but for the whole world to be bedazzled by it.

Along with pairing the right kind of jewellery with the right outfit, one should also consider the technicalities that goes behind the making of a jewellery so that it compliments the wearer and their outfit in every way.

Below mentioned are 7 golden rules that a jewellery designer must be aware of while designing their collection.

RULE 1: BALANCE IS IMPORTANT

Balance in jewellery designing is defined as the distribution of the visual weights of materials, colours, texture and space. The idea is that the weights should be similar or equivalent on both sides so that the design is stable. For example, if there are a cluster of tiny elements on one side of a necklace, they can be balanced out by a proportionately large element on the other side. Additionally, while considering physical weight, it’s important to take note of the visual weight as well, such as colour & texture.

Balance can be symmetrical (evenly balanced), asymmetrical (un-evenly balanced) or radial balanced (arranged around a central point).

Symmetric, Asymmetric, Design with Radial Imbalance & Off-Balance Design

RULE 2- EMPHASIS IS THE KEY

Emphasis is known as the focal point of the design that catches the viewer’s attention. It is also known as dominance. A jewellery artist can make one particular area of the design stand out by contrasting and pairing it with other areas in size, shape, colour or texture. The focal element in the design can also be isolated, as an object placed away from a cluster of other elements will draw attention or placing it in the centre of the design will bring in the most attention. It is important to keep in mind that if there is an element or object in the jewellery piece that you would like to be highlighted, such as a handmade element, statement piece or other special object. The jewellery piece will appear more harmonious if there is one clear point of focus.

The point of emphasis here being the single element of its kind in a cluster of differently coloured beads. 

RULE 3- MOVEMENT IS THE MAGIC

Movement is referred to as the path that our eyes follow in a particular piece of jewellery. A jewellery artist can control the way and path in which the eye moves by arranging the elements within a piece a certain way. This “movement” is commonly achieved by repetition, rhythm and action.

For example, the eye will travel along lines, edges, graduation of sizes, repeated shapes, darker to lighter elements and from colour to non-colour. The flow can be on-going or can stop at different elements within the piece, such as a focal point.

The use of repetition to create movement happens when elements are repeated regularly or irregularly. Minute variations to a simple repetition in a piece of jewellery add visual interest.

Examples of jewellery pieces that convey repetition, rhythm and action.

RULE 4- PROPORTION IS THE POWER

Proportion is the unity created when all the elements (colour, size, amount) in a particular jewellery piece relate well with each other. Proportion is all about the relationship of one portion of the design to another or one prominent area to the whole. Proportion is usually not noticed until something is not in proportion. Artists can use enlarged or over the top proportions to bring emphasis or highlight the certain element.

For achieving good proportion in jewellery designs, one can group similar elements together or things that share a common feature, such as texture, colour, materials, etc. The clasp and central piece should be proportional to the other elements in a particular jewellery design and the overall piece should be in proportion to the person wearing it.

 The emphasis here is on the proportion of the centre piece as compared to the rest of the jewellery.

RULE 5- CONTRAST IS THE KEYSTONE

Contrast is created by using objects and elements that conflict with one another, such as colours opposing each other on the colour wheel, using horizontal and vertical lines in the design or extremely light and dark components. Contrast generates interest and attracts the eye to specified areas in a piece.

In the piece portrayed here, the colours used are in contrast adding to that extra oomph in the piece.

RULE 6- UNITY IS THE ULTIMATE

Unity refers to how the components in a design work together. It is a measure of how the elements in the design or a particular piece of art belong and fit together. A unified design indicates first a whole, then the sum of its parts. Unity can be created by accumulating like items together in a design and repeating a colour, texture or element throughout the design. Unity is the feeling of harmony amongst all parts of the artwork that instils a sense of wholesomeness.

The repetition of the emerald stones unifies the design as a whole.

RULE 7- HARMONY IS THE HARBINGER

Harmony refers to how the various elements in a piece of jewellery relate to, complement and complete each other. It is achieved in this art by using similar objects and elements throughout the work, giving an effortless and easy appeal to the design.

The statement piece portrayed above are an example of how different elements are brought together to be in perfect harmony to create the ultimate piece of art.

These are a few points to consider in a vast ocean of the art of designing jewellery. To educate more about this interesting and lucrative art form, Le Mark School of Art and Design has come up with a unique curriculum on jewellery designing that is specially designed to give the learners an industrial exposure and a practical approach.

 

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